The dark horse of our July 2012 menu, this simple-seeming flavor is actually one of our most requested. Early in our Salt & Straw career we did a monthly Chef’s Series where we collaborated with some of Portland’s most talented in the industry, which eventually evolved into how we develop menus. This one was based on a dessert by the illustrious Naomi Pomeroy of Beast. Since then we’ve dialed in the levels of salt and smokiness, played with different chocolates (insider tip: the chocolate coating will protect its contents from going soggy in ice cream!), and are achieving the rousing texture with both feuilletine and a sweet Japanese short-grain rice deep roasted until puffy, fragrant, and surprisingly complex. Expect a light smoked salt base with gratifyingly crackly bits of chocolate scattered throughout.